If the wastegate was not present, the turbo would just keep increasing the pressure inside the engine until, well, the pressure got out somewhere else, probably either the head gasket or the side of the block. This vacuum hose delivers pressure from the turbocharger to the wastegate to actuate the latter and relieve the boost pressure. A small bracket is included, but some light modifications might be necessary to mount it in an ideal location.Ĩ. It needs to be mounted in a position-stable location with the nipple facing downward to prevent condensation from collecting. The other key component in the engine bay is this pressure sensor, which actually reads the pressure signal from the intake tract and relays it to the gauge inside the car. You’ll need to place it where it can be reached by the wiring harness as well as a vacuum line from the turbo to the wastegate.ħ. One major component of the system is this solenoid-based boost controller. Also, don’t replace the trim or carpet until the final step, as you’ll be making lots of small tweaks in both directions to get everything to fit properly.Ħ. When pulling the wires through, take care that you leave enough wire in the engine bay to properly hook up the devices that need to be located there. For our MR2, the harness was just barely long enough to extend through the cabin and to the dash while still keeping the wires hidden behind trim. If you’re installing this setup in a front-engined car, you’ll have zero issues. The harness was easy to run along the sill of the car after pulling off the rim and carpet clip. It emerged into the cabin like a tiny, wiry baby, ready to face the world with turbocharged fury.ĥ. After securing the pulling wire around end of the harness, we pulled it through the grommet and into the interior of the car. We poked a piece of stiff wire through from the interior of the car into the engine bay.Ĥ. The rubber seal also has a generous area around the main harness to fish additional wires through.ģ. Remove some trim and pull the carpet off of the vertical firewall, and the grommet protecting the main wiring harness is clearly visible. In our case, we had a very convenient pass-through right behind the driver’s seat. It’s about ¾-inch wide, so it’s not exactly tiny, but it can usually be passed through an existing grommet or seam.Ģ. Installing the interior component of the system requires passing this wiring connector from the engine compartment to the dash of the car. When installed in Auto Meter’s integral A-pillar gauge pod, it’s a clean and easy way to monitor and eventually adjust boost in out project car.ġ.
BEST BOOST GAUGE FOR MR2 TURBO INSTALL
The $360 kit lets you not only precisely monitor your boost levels, but also adjust the boost through a solenoid-actuated purge valve you install in the wastegate actuation vacuum line. Our answer came from Stack in the form of a 2-1/16-inch diameter digital boost gauge and electronic boost controller. In any case, the factory boost gauge isn’t even graduated numerically, and we needed something more precise than “low” and “high.” While turbocharged MR2s from that year originally came with dash-mounted boost gauges from the factory, the fact that our car’s original Gen2 3SGTE engine had been swapped for a more technologically complex Gen4 3SGTE engine by Prime Performance means that the retention of the factory boost gauge is not possible. So, if the goal with our 1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo is going to include additional power, more boost will certainly be a part of that equation. Things are “mechanically” more complex, since accessing that data requires more than simply looking at what the car is already monitoring. Plug in to the data port with the proper protocols and anything the computer knows you can know, too.īut for folks with pre- OBD vehicles, like the ones that exist with a larger complement of analog controls not linked by a central brain, things can be a bit more complex.
For more recent cars-anything from the OBDII era or newer-that data is typically available right from the on-board computer. However, if your goal is to increase the boost on your turbocharged engine, first you need to know precisely how much you have. The more complex answer is that while simply increasing the boost compresses more air into the engine, that additional air requires additional fuel to ignite, and a whole host of other potential adjustments to properly ignite the mixture and prevent an explosive disaster.
Making more power with turbocharged cars is easy, right? Just add boost and the rest works itself out.
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